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IWe have had one or two emails of late about how to care for antique jewellery and how to spot restorations so we have added some more infomation you might find useful. Also in section is some information on fakes, forgeries and reproduction jewellery.

Restorations & Repairs

A crude and clumsy repair to a good quality antique jewel will ruin its integrity and in most cases will seriously affect its value. The problem is not so wide spread recently, mainly because of greater under understanding and awareness by jewellers and their clients of the importance of prime condition. Repairs and conversions should only be undertaken as a last resort. Unfortunately ‘historical’ modifications are common place in which original fittings, pins and loops removed, Makers marks have been deleted, hallmarks cut out of Victorian rings, roller catches added to antique brooches, poorly matched gems and modern diamonds insensitively set in antique frames and last but certainly not least lead solder used in place of discreet gold.

The fact of the matter is that no matter how skilled the repair or conversion an experienced valuer will always be able to tell. So, unless you intend to keep the piece as an heirloom, give the matter serious consideration first. Buyers of antique jewellery just like buyer so old paintings, ceramics and furniture. They want an item that is untouched, preferably unrestored and which is how it was on the original day of purchase.

Having said all that there is no point have a piece of jewellery locked away, unworn for years simply because it is uncomfortable or difficult to wear. The secret is to seek the right advice from a qualified jeweller and preferably one with a good local reputation. No matter how experienced the jeweller some works of restoration are simply not advisable, for example early works of Faberge, early jewellery and enamel, gold filigree and mosaics. Nevertheless, some enhancements can actually improve the value of an item, for example, adding a pendant bale to an unfashionable cluster brooch, republishing worn gem stones, Re-foiling period gems where the tin foil has deteriorated to enhance colour, and replacing discoloured pearls and turquoise which match the original.

Just like repairs and conversions, you should take great care in the cleaning of antique and period jewels. Many antique items should only be cleaned by experienced jewellers but there are a few things that can be done. Soak and old tooth brush in warm water applying a few drops of washing up liquid, and brush gentitly in small circular movements around the stone settings and to the reverse. Avoid soaps or cleaners which dry to leave white deposits and dry thoroughly with kitchen paper. This method is fine to use on diamond, ruby, sapphire gem stones and semi-precious stones such as topaz, but this is completely unsuitable for porous stones such as opal, emeralds, turquoise and pearls as you may damage the stone beyond repair.

This is not just a modern day curse, since early times brass and gilded metals have masqueraded as gold while glass and imitation stones have been substitutes for diamonds and precious gems for many centuries. Here is a list, by no means comprehensive, of the pitfalls encountered on a regular basis in world of jewellery and gems.

Today it is possible to radiate, enhance improve and synthesise the appearance of practically every gems stone in the world. Diamonds are imitated by a wide range of colourless stones such as topaz or rock crystal, some which are crude and obvious while others are technically advanced. Diamonds with obvious flaws are sometimes lasered to remove carbon marks and defects while coloured diamonds can be enhanced to intensify the colour.

A problem in making for the jewellery industry is cultured diamonds, although not common at present, it will not be long before unscrupulous traders start to pass these off as natural, mined from the earth stones. To counteract the dilemma and to boost buyers confidence diamond polishers have started to laser tiny serial numbers to the girdles of their stones which can then be compared to its formal certificate.

Rubies and sapphires have been synthesised since the 1920’s and many Art Deco jewels are set with these man made stones. View any calibre cut or baton cut stones with caution, especially when set into cocktail watches, bracelets and clips. Also ensure that any serious purchase of modern sapphires and rubies are accompanied by an independent certificate of authenticity. Any jeweller should be able to arrange this for you but check what the additional costs will be, if any.

Of all the precious gems, emerald is the stone that is most liable to be treated in some way, so much so that this has effected the market in recent years. As a rule of thumb, rubies and emeralds are naturally flawed and flawless stones are very rare hence considerably more valuable.

Opals are often strengthened by adding layers of above and below the stone known as doublets and triplets.

Aquamarines are often imitated with cheaper synthetic spinnels while colour change corundum’s have been sold as valuable alexandrite.

Glass has been a cheaper substitute for genuine gems since the middle ages. Glass, or paste, is softer that real gemstones and can be indicated by moulded facets and abrassions on the surface. Glass is a poor conductor of heat so will feel warm to the touch and it can often swirls or bubbles which are visible to the naked eye or through a jewellers loop.

Eighteenth century paste jewellery can be remarkably deceptive so check closely Georgian rings etc. Finally, examine carefully foil backed stones, particularly rubies, sapphires and pink topaz as your precious ruby might be just be a foil backed rock crystal

Treat all signed pieces with a degree of caution. The mass production of fake Faberge has become so widespread it has lead to phrase ‘Fauxberge’ All well known names such as Cartier, Bulgari & Tiffany have all been extensively faked, some so poorly that the names and signatures are even spelt wrong.

Faked signed and period jewellery always lack the quality and finish of the genuine article. Settings are poorly made while gems are often inferior and diamonds excessively flawed. Much of the supposedly Art Deco style jewellery that is seen around today is made in the Far East and is usually to high standard, although the diamonds tend to be perfectly proportioned modern cuts and the coloured gems usually exhibit a machine like consistently. 19^th Century Revivalist jewellery is both faked completely and by adding a signature to a genuine 19^th century made in a similar style to that particular maker.

The technically skilled use of pique-a-jour enamel is very good resulting in clever Art Nouveau fakes such as brooches and pendants in insect and figurative forms.

Watches are probably the most faked items in the luxury good market today, and the better the name the more likely it is to be fake. Always ensure when purchasing a wristwatch that it from a totally reliable source and that it is supplied with a guarantee and preferably its original box, paper work and receipts. Some of the fakes that are around are so good they can occasionally fool even the most experienced jeweller, but any reputable supplier will be able to resolve any problems that could arise.

Finally, do check the sales receipts carefully. Fakes and forgeries are usually sold at prices that by no means cheap but considerably less expensive than the genuine article would cost. Always ask for a written receipt that states definitely the age, origin and provenance (if known) of the item you are purchasing. If buying from an auction the same rules should apply but we are all aware of the phrase used extensively in this business - Buyer Beware! Check the auction houses terms and conditions of sale for phrases like buyers own risk and sold as seen without guarantee, if in doubt ask the auctioneer as to their opinion.