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Stones cuts
There are many stone cuts available but here are a few of the most popular:
Brilliant Cut
The brilliant is designed to allow as much light as possible to reflect from the bottom of the stone to the top. The brilliant cut was first invented in the early C18th but had many 
updates and changes in the 19th century. It has a total of 56 facets not including the table and culet. In the early part of the century most stones were cushion shaped with large culet, small table and high crown. By the end of the century the table had become larger and the crown flatter to allow more light to be reflected through the stone. On examination, most C19th stones are not symetrical, even on good quality stones but as technology improved into the C20th facets become more symetrical.
Eight cut/single cut
The eight cut is a later version of the Brilliant cut, developed around 1910 and is usually
used on diamonds of around 0.05ct. This has fewer facets than the original brilliant cut so is less costly to produce. It is usually used on less valuable pieces but give the effect of a Brilliant as the difference is only noticable when looked at through a lense. until the 1930's the eight cut was usually octagonal the become more rounded until the 50's.
Rose Cut (G)
Today the rose cut is used on small stone and chips, as the brilliant cut results in to much waste. The standard rose cut has a flat base and 24 triangular facets. The rose cut is usually used on Diamonds and was very popular in the C18th and on less expensive C19th jewellery.
Step Cut (H)
Mainly used on coloured stones.
Cushion Cut (I)
With its distictive rounded pavillion this is often used on sapphires and rubies.
Emerald Cut (J)
The Emerald cut was developed in the C19th but was not widely used until the C20th. Mainly used on larger stones especially Aquamarines, Diamonds and Topaz.
Carbochon (K)
Stones that are polished unfaceted to give a domed top with either a slightly convex or flat base are refered to as Carbochon. This is usually used on heavily flawed stones that would be unsuitable for faceting, also on stones are opaque such as opals and turquoise. This cut can be round oval or cushion shaped and has been in use since the C19th.
Square cut (L)
Used on a variety of stones, this cut was particulary popular during the Art Deco period.
Baguette Cut (M)
This is usually used on items of jewellery that have a variety of stone cuts included, with its long, thin shape is often used for acent diamonds on solitaires.
Navette/Marquise cut (N)
This is the most expensive cut used because of the amount of waste produced. More commonly called the Marquise the navette shape is a modification of the brilliant cut but with a boat shape stone. This was very popular in C18th french court jewellery but fell out of favour until the C19th and has been in constant use since. To date these stones you follow the basic rules of the brilliant cut.
Heart Cut (O)
This cut was incredibly popular in the Edwardian period when the C18th fashions were revived. Currently going through a resurgence in popularity in todays jewellery.
Trapeze (P)
Mainly used for rings with large stones this cut came into use in the 1920's.
Calibre Cut.
Gem stones that are cut into a particular shape to fit a particular setting are refered to a Calibre cut. These stones are normally small and use any form of faceting.
Precious & Semi Precious Gem Stones
Please find below information on common (and not so common) precious and semi-precious gems used in jewellery.
Agate - Common, waxy and soft stone, usually banded, sometimes with small crystals. Often artificially coloured. Found in the USA, India, Morocco, Czech Republic, Brazil and Africa and used in main types of jewellery including brooches, fobs and many items of Scottish pieces Angel hair - Rutilated or rutile quartz often confused with moss agate. Alexandrite - Expensive form of Chrysoberyl - colour change varieties are very sort after. This is readily available these days from TV shopping channels which has helped bring prices down but these stones tend to be heat treated. natural colour change stones are very hard to get hold of and command a premium. Also see Chrysoberyl. Almandine garnet - see garnet Amber - Yellow or golden brown (green is artificially coloured). Transparent or opaque resin from fossilized tree resin. Pieces with vegetation and especially insects trapped inside are especially sort after and alter price significantly. found in Britain, Poland, Italy, Romania, Russia and Germany amongst other places. Amethyst - Semi-precious gemstone which varies in colour from deep purple to pale lavender. These days this is a very underrated gemstone, at its peak of popularity in the 18th century this was more highly prized than diamonds. Found in USA, Britain, Canada, Brazil, Mexico, Russia, Sri Lanka, Eastern Africa, Siberia and India. Ametrine - sourced from only one mine in Bolivia this stone is readily available. A combination of amethyst and citrine, this purple and yellow gem is a striking stone to look at. Andradite - see garnet Apatite - mainly opaque but sometimes transparent and glassy this gem often get confused with tourmaline. Sourced from Mexico, Norway, Russia and the United states this is highly sort after in yellow but is more readily available in green, grey, blue white, purple, brown, red-brown and violet. Aquamarine - the very best aqua’s are crystal clear deep green-blue and usually faceted. Found in the United States, Mexico, Russia, Brazil, India, amongst other places. Bassanite - Black jasper, see jasper Beryl - This transparent stone is found in Pink (morganite), Golden, Yellow, Green, White and Blue. This is fair easy to obtain but jewellery quality stones can be expensive. Black Diamond - see Diamonds Bloodstone - popular with the victorians in the use of fobs and seals this red-green stone is a type of quartz flecked with red or yellow jasper. Sourced from Australia, brazil and china amongst others. Bog oak - Boulder opal - natural opal still on its matrix. Found in modern silver jewellery and sometimes in gold set pieces. Brecciated jasper - Jasper veined with hematite, see jasper and hematite Carnelian - Popular in the use of fobs, seals and intaglios, this red or orange stone is also found in pink and brown. Chalcedony - Another Victorian favourite, naturally white, pink, blue, red or greyish this is often dyed to intensify the colour. Often found in mourning jewellery, seals and intaglios. Chrysoberyl - Golden Yellow, yellow-brown and green with red (alexandrite) Cats eye forms can be expensive along with the collectable alexandrite. Citrine - natural citrine is actually quite rare, heat treated amethyst is often sold as citrine. Ranging from Yellow to yellowish brown or smoky grey-brown. Blue lace agate - Pale blue with white or dakerlines Dendritic agate - Clear, brown or green in colour with fern like markings, often found in smaller pieces. mainly used in silver jewellery. Diamond - A symbol of purity and commitment, this stone is said to increase the commitment between husband and wife hence it is a popular choice for engament rings. Internally flawless (IF) stones can be incredibly expensive with often smaller IF stones costing considerably more than larger stones. Naturally found in white, yellow, blue, brown, green and pink (termed as fancy coloured) this is another stone that is heat treated to intensify colour (natural coloured stones are available and command a premium). lower quality stones are used n tools and drilling equipment although there is trend to heat treat these to make black Diamonds. Mined in Africa, Australia, Brazil, India, Russia and the United States. Emerald - Unpolished emerald id readily available and is often used in modern silver jewellery as large pieces are affordable. Gems quality stones which are traditionally found in in good quality modern and antique jewellery are expensive. Mined in India, Zimbabwe, Tanzania, Brazil and Egypt amongst other places, this is one of the Big four. A naturally flawed stone, this is often cut to minimise the appearance of the inclusions. French jet - black glass, mainly used in beads and brooches. Often confused with jet, although French jet has a shinier finish. Garnet - There are many different types of garnet which come naturally in, red, pink, green, orange, yellow, brown and black. Small pieces are often faceted with larger pieces being cut en cabochon. This stone which is mined worldwide has been used in jewellery throughout history. The most common form used is Pyrope garnet for it smooth, deep colour. see also Almandine, Andradite, Grossularite, Hessonite, Melanite, Pyrope, Rhodolite, Spessartite, Uvarovite. Grossularite - see garnet Hematite - A silvery grey or red colour when polished this is often used in intaglios, seals and fobs and also in men’s signet rings although can be found in bead forms. This common stone is found in Britain, Italy, Brazil, Sweden, Canada, and Switzerland. Herkimer Diamond - This clear gemstone has an oily appearance with inner rainbows. This is another expensive stone that is not commonly heard of. Mainly used in crystal healing but is found in earrings and pendants. mined in United states, Mexico, Spain and Tanzania. Hessonite - see garnet Iolite - Translucent gemstone which can have colour changes with the angle of view. Mined in the United states this stone is usually faceted. Not generally found in large pieces. Hiddenite - Green Kunzite, although does range in colour from yellow to emerald green | Jade - The collective name of Jadeite (translucent) and nephrite (creamy) used since antiquity in carvings and jewellery. Comes in many colours including green, orange, brown, blue, cream, lavender, red and white. Nephrite is more easily available that jadeite. Art deco jewellery in jade and diamond is particularly sort after and antique Chinese pieces can command hefty prices.
Jasper - Again mainly used in seals fobs and intaglios this is also found in in modern silver jewellery. As with garnets, there are many different types and colours see, Picture jasper, Bassanite, mookite, picture jasper, orbicular jasper, brecciated jasper. Jet - Coming from fossilized wood this looks like coal and is usually polished. Popular in Victorian mourning and is found in simple bead form up to high carved pieces. Condition is important to value as his does chip fairly easy. Often imitated or confused with other stones see French Jet, Vauxhall glass and bog oak. Kunzite - Labrodorite - grayish to black with tones of blue and yellow. This is usually polished and remains dark until it catches the light which shows the iridescent blue and yellow flashes which are typical with stone. Mainly found in small carvings and modern silver jewellery but is sometimes found in modern gold jewellery but this tend to be the yellow transparent variety. Mined in Italy, Greenland, Finland, Russia, Canada and Scandinavia. Lapis Lazuli - This dense, deep blue stone with flecks of gold has been used since antiquity. Sourced from Russia, Egypt, Chile, Italy United States and the Middle East this stone is readily available but can be expensive. Popular during the Egyptian revival this stone is becoming increasing popular again. Malachite - Green stone of light and dark bands and rosettes. Popular in seals and fob and also in large pendants that show off the banding to full effect. Melanite - see garnet Mookite - Australian jasper, see jasper Moonstone - A milky or translucent stone naturally found in white, cream, yellow blue and green. Can also be a combination of these colours which is referred to a rainbow moonstone. Sourced from India, Sri lanka and Australia. Moss agate - Green, blue, red yellow and brown with moss like markings. Onyx - Found in many colours but in jewellery mainly found in black. Often carved intaglio or highly polished in seals fobs and rings. Popular in mourning jewellery. Opal - Clear or milky, iridescent and fiery or vitreous without fire. Fine, gem quality opals can be expensive with black opals being the valuable and sort after. Often referred to as unlucky opals actually stand for sincerity and purity. Be on the look out for opal doublets and triplets being sold as one stone. see also boulder opal. Opal doublet - layer of natural opal with either an onyx base layer or rock crystal top layer. Opal triplet - Layer of natural opal sandwiched between onyx and rock crystal to increase size, colour, fire and durability. Orbicular jasper - see jasper Peridot - popular gemstone which ranges from olive green through to brownish colours. Usually faceted. Easily obtainable although gem quality stones are harder to source. Picture jasper - Form of brown jasper, see jasper Prehnite - Found in small to medium pieces colours range from green yellow through to brown. Only recently becoming popular in jewellery. Pyrope - see garnet Quartz - Many different varieties and colours available ranging from pink (rose quartz) to brown. Rhodolite - see garnet Ruby - of the same family as sapphires, poor quality stones are mainly set in modern silver jewellery. High quality gems pieces is expensive, a naturally flawed stone, colour and clarity can greatly affect cost. Rule of thumb with buying rubies is if it looks to good to be true in probably is. Often confused with Spinel and good quality garnets. Rubelite - see tourmaline. Sapphire - naturally found in many colours including blue, yellow, green, black and purple and can be faceted or cut en cabochon if it has inclusions. Yellow sapphires are particularly sort after but can be confused with yellow beryl. Spessartite - see garnet Spinel - found in many colours including white, red, blue, violet, black green, yellow, orange and brown. Due to colours that this is found in it can easily be confused with rubies, sapphires etc. Very collectable in their own right. Sunstone - yellow orange or red-brown transparent stone, mainly found in modern jewellery. Tigers eye - Usually found in its brown-yellow variety, it can also be pink blue or red. Used in rings, fobs and brooches as a general rule but bead form is becoming popular. Topaz - Golden yellow, brown, blue, clear, red-pink (rare) and green. Most modern stones are heat treated to enhance the colour or create un-natural colour ways such as mystic topaz or moonlight topaz which make them more affordable. A gem quality natural coloured stone can be expensive. White or clear topaz is often used as an affordable substitute for diamonds. Rutilated topaz is extremely rare and not often seen in jewellery. Tiger iron - A combination stone of jasper, hematite and tigers eye, usually found in small carvings and panels that are occasionally found mounted in jewellery, sometimes found in seals fobs and intaglios. Tourmaline - Usually faceted this stone is found in many colours, very collectable and is found in modern and antique jewellery. Apitate is often confused with tourmaline. Turquoise - popular in Victorian jewellery it symbolises the forget-me-not flower hence its use in sentimental jewellery. Uvardite - see garnet Vauxhall glass - |
Zodiac & Birthstones
Aries march 21st - April 19th - Ruby Taurus April 20th - May20th - Emerald Gemini May 21st - June 20th - Tourmaline Cancer June 21st - July 22nd - Moonstone Leo Jully 23rd - August 22nd - Tigers eye Virgo August 23rd - Sept 22nd - Peridot Libra Sept 23rd - October 22nd - Sapphire Scorpio October 23rd - November 21st - Topaz Sagittarius November 22nd - December 21st - Topaz Capricorn December 23rd - January 19th - Jet Aquarius January 20th - Febuary 18th - Aquamarine Pisces Febuary 19th - March 20th - Moonstone. The twelve zodiac signs all have crystal affinities, some coming from the planets connected to a sign, some from the month of birth. As new stones and crystals are discovered they are assigned to a sign hence there are many stones attributed to each sign so it can be open to interpretation.
| January - Garnet February - Amethyst March- Aquamarine April - Diamond May - Emerald June - Pearl July - Ruby August - Peridot September - Sapphire October - Opal November - Topaz December - Turquoise |
