T D Gold & Collectables

There are many stone cuts available but here are a few of the most popular:

Brilliant Cut

The brilliant is designed to allow as much light as possible to reflect from the bottom of the stone to the top. The brilliant cut was first invented in the early C18th but had many updates and changes in the 19th century. It has a total of 56 facets not including the table and culet. In the early part of the century most stones were cushion shaped with large culet, small table and high crown. By the end of the century the table had become larger and the crown flatter to allow more light to be reflected through the stone. On examination, most C19th stones are not symetrical, even on good quality stones but as technology improved into the C20th facets become more symetrical.

Eight cut/single cut

The eight cut is a later version of the Brilliant cut, developed around 1910 and is usually used on diamonds of around 0.05ct. This has fewer facets than the original brilliant cut so is less costly to produce. It is usually used on less valuable pieces but give the effect of a Brilliant as the  difference is only noticable when looked at through a lense. until the 1930's the eight cut was usually octagonal the become more rounded until the 50's. 

Rose Cut (G)

Today the rose cut is used on small stone and chips, as the brilliant cut results in to much waste. The standard rose cut has a flat base and 24 triangular facets. The rose cut is usually used on Diamonds and was very popular in the C18th and on less expensive C19th jewellery.

Step Cut (H)

Mainly used on coloured stones.

Cushion Cut (I)

With its distictive rounded pavillion this is often used on sapphires and rubies.

Emerald Cut (J)

The Emerald cut was developed in the C19th but was not widely used until the C20th. Mainly used on larger stones especially Aquamarines, Diamonds and Topaz.

Carbochon (K)

Stones that are polished unfaceted to give a domed top with either a slightly convex or flat base are refered to as Carbochon. This is usually used on heavily flawed stones that would be unsuitable for faceting, also on stones are opaque such as opals and turquoise. This cut can be round oval or cushion shaped and has been in use since the C19th.

Square cut (L)

Used on a variety of stones, this cut was particulary popular during the Art Deco period.

Baguette Cut (M)

This is usually used on items of jewellery that have a variety of stone cuts included, with its long, thin shape is often used for acent diamonds on solitaires.

Navette/Marquise cut (N)

This is the most expensive cut used because of the amount of waste produced. More commonly called the Marquise the navette shape is a modification of the brilliant cut but with a boat shape stone. This was very popular in C18th french court jewellery but fell out of favour until the C19th and has been in constant use since. To date these stones you follow the basic rules of the brilliant cut.

Heart Cut (O)

This cut was incredibly popular in the Edwardian period when the C18th fashions were revived. Currently going through a resurgence in popularity in todays jewellery.

Trapeze (P)

Mainly used for rings with large stones this cut came into use in the 1920's.

Calibre Cut.

Gem stones that are cut into a particular shape to fit a particular setting are refered to a Calibre cut. These stones are normally small and use any form of faceting.